How it works:
https://i.materialise.com/blog/resin-3d-printing-stereolithography-explained/
In the first instance, the roller of the printer spreads out a razor-thin layer of liquid polymer. Since this layer is liquid, it will spread out over the entire platform ensuring that each layer has a consistent thickness The liquid polymer we use is UV sensitive. When struck by a computer-controlled UV laser, the resin will change from a liquid to solid state. Basically, the laser “draws” the outlines of the print onto the resin layer and hardens the parts that it touches. The parts that are not touched by the laser will remain liquid These two steps are repeated over and over and over again. The model is lowered by a fraction, and the roller spreads out a new layer. The laser then solidifies specific areas of that layer, which will become parts of your 3D print. This is repeated until the model is finished Once the printing process is completed and the entire object has been printed, the print is raised out of the resin tank. The excess liquid will simply flow away and can be reused for other prints. The prints then need to be removed and finished manually (i.e. remove support structure, smoothen surfaces, spray-paint surfaces, etc.)
Online Resources:
Tutorials: https://formlabs.com/blog/category/tutorials
Molding Tutorial:
Form2 Printer like the one we have on campus:
How to Access on Campus
Form 2 3D Printers: https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/
Makerwing on the C level of Hammershlag (previous MechE cluster)
- same floor as Scott Hall Cafe
- open every day from 9:30AM to 9:30PM
- 4 machines total (have funky animal names)
Industrial Design Lab Porter Hall A Level
- Must be a design major
What to do:
The process of setting up a print on a resin 3D printer is quite similar to that needed to print a part on a traditional FDM printer. The part is designed in a CAD software, converted to an .STL file, and imported into the printer’s software. After it’s placed on the bed and the proper settings are input, the user hits “print.”
It’s the aftermath of the print job that is a little more complex than a traditional FDM printer. After the part is removed from the printer’s build plate, it is rinsed in an isopropanol bath (gloves and goggles should be worn for this) for around 2 minutes to remove unhardened resin. After rinsing, it should be left in for approximately 10 minutes to soak. Finally the part should be cured fully, being left either in a window or in a UV oven. After curing, the supports can be removed and the part can be used. Curing takes approximately 12 to 24 hours depending on the part.