Textile traditions – Sarasa

Sarasa has its origins in the early Edo Period (1603 to 1868) of Japan when Portuguese seafaring traders introduced cotton calicos or chintz they acquired in India. Imported Indian calicos were exceedingly expensive and too high-priced to be making into kimonos.

Production of domestic sarasa began in the late 1600s when Japanese dye workers found a method to replicate the designs of Indian calicos from their own style and production techniques. Master Japanese textile makers applied their indigenous katazome textile printing skills into making sarasa (rice paste resist dyeing with washi paper stencils “katagami”). In addition to katazome printing, a few dye works employed woodblock stamping to produce sarasa patterns on fabric.

Production of domestic sarasa began in the late 1600s when Japanese dye workers found a method to replicate the designs of Indian calicos from their own style and production techniques. Master Japanese textile makers applied their indigenous katazome textile printing skills into making sarasa (rice paste resist dyeing with washi paper stencils “katagami”). In addition to katazome printing, a few dye works employed woodblock stamping to produce sarasa patterns on fabric. And the dye maker somtimes also hand painted colors on the fabric.

These were characterized by distinctive floral and animal designs with geometric shapes favored by the Japanese. Madder dye derived from the native akaso plant provided Japanese dye masters with the desired red and brown colors favored for producing sarasa prints. The hitherto dominate Japanese indigo blue played a minor role in sarasa colors.

source: https://www.kimonoboy.com/sarasa.html

Mending – Annie

I decided to mend a large hole worn in the webbing of the back of my backpack. I decided to darn through it using embroidery thread, but then felt that the pink stood out awkwardly with just a line. After Tuesday’s class, I decided to use some of the techniques we learned in class and add some flowers. The webbing was surprisingly difficult to sow through, especially with access to only one side of the material. I was surprised by how well some of the flowers and leaves turned out. I really liked how bright these are in contrast to my backpack; the colors turned out really well.

While doing this I thought about how useless my backpack was now that COVID is a thing – I don’t think I’ve worn it for over half a year now. It’s just been serving as a decorative piece in the corner of my room, and now it’ll sit a bit prettier. When I get time, I might add more flowers on the side cushions.

Tapestry Weaving – Annie

Through this tapestry, I wanted to explore how humanity has affected the ocean. I wanted to make it vibrant, as we usually see images of coral reefs and through media, but interweave bits of plastic through both the jellyfish and the ocean to symbolize the effects of littering such as the Great Pacific garbage patch. The bits of green which are slowly being swallowed up by the expanse of blue and purple show the effects of rising oceans as climate change gets worse and worse.

Using soumaks to create a piling up effect and adding depth, lonzenges to create movement within the tapestry, rya knots to create jellyfish tentacles, and diagonal interlocks to create the round shapes were some successes. I also really liked how the fish net effect turned out on top. I had a difficult time figuring out how to keep my edges even during the vertical striped segment, and also had a hard time figuring out how to incorporate the ending techniques so they would look like part of the jellyfishes. I was surprised by how well the plastic worked for the jellyfish.

Total Time Spent: ~12 hrs

The Urchins (2017) by Choi+Shine

The Urchins, 2017, Marina Bay, Singapore

I chose this piece because I loved how it displays crocheting on such a large scale that we don’t usually think of when considering textiles. I loved the contrast of the way it looked at night and during the day, and how people could become part of the art by standing within it.

This piece was created for the i Light Marina Bay Festival, a sustainability focused event. The designs for the crochet and support took 2 and a half months, and the actual process of crocheting took another 2 and a half months, with the help of 50 people across the world.

More details can be found on the Choi+Shine website: Installation | Fabrication