Pattern Detectives: Woven Tops (fall 2025) – 99-361 IDeATe Portal: Garments

AVAILABLE FABRICS (all fabrics are from Nick of Time)
1. Light Grey Chambray: Plain weave fabric with a dyed warp yarn and a white weft yarn. It is 100% cotton. It wrinkles and requires ironing.
2. Black Broadcloth: Tightly woven plain weave cloth. Smooth and lightweight. Drapes and holds its shape.
3. Sky Blue, Green, Navy, 6 Ounce Laundered Linen: Medium weight. Frays and wrinkles but is very breathable. Best for relaxed fit.
4. White French Twill: Mid-weight cotton with a tight diagonal weave. Accepts reactive dye beautifully without extra preparation.
5. Indigo 10 Ounce Denim Made for Wrangler
6. Stone, Oxford Shirting
7. Oxford Shirting, Lavender
8. Indigo Featherweight Denim – 4 Ounce
9. Sazon and Khaki, Brushed-Back Bull Denim 9 Ounce

Students will use chapters from the following S. Furrer video classes to complete the Pattern Detectives assignment. Supplemental excerpts from books and other video resources will be provided individually when necessary.

Patternmaking + Design: Creative Sleeves
Introduction & Getting Started (sloper modifications needed for blouse/shirt, jacket, coat + how to measure for sleeve sloper)
Basic Sleeve Sloper and Tailored Sleeve
Two-Piece Sleeve and Sleeve with Vent
Sleeve Variation Part 1
Sleeve Variation Part 2
Lining, Placket, Pleat and Cuff
Drop Shoulder Sleeve and Bodice

Additional videos regarding sleeves pattern making and sewing are available under Assignment Support: Sleeve Pattern Adjustments

Classic Men’s Shirt Drafting Playlist from QUT
Men’s Shirt Sewing Playlist from QUT

Patternmaking + Design: Creative Necklines Class
Boat Necklines
V Necklines
Sweetheart and Cornered Necklines
Strapless, Halter, Grecian Necklines
Funnel and Opera Necklines

Patternmaking + Design: Collars & Closures Class
Drafting Button Plackets
Camp Collar and Peter Pan Collar
Shawl and Partial Roll Collars
Napoleon Collar
Notched Collar
Roll Collar

Patternmaking + Design: Creative Darts & Seam Lines
Basics of Dart Manipulation
Dart Variations
Gathers & Curves
Dart Wrap-Up
Princess Line to the Armhole
Princess Line Variations
Empire and Baby Doll Lines
A-Line, Swing (trapeze), Double Breasted Lines
Designing Garments for Production

Dart Manipulation Playlist from QUT

Books
The Fashion Design Toolkit by Tracy Jennigs
Collar Galore by The Shapes of Fabric
Patternmaking Made Easy by Connie Amaden-Crawford
Mad About Sleeves by The Shapes of Fabric

ONLINE RESOURCES FOR DRAFTING AND SEWING TOPS
Students who chose tops without sleeves, need to add sleeves to the chosen tops.

TIPPI

more views of the same shirt can be found here
clues: square neckline, collar for square neckline, altered fitted bodice, front placket, sleeves with folded cuff
resources:
Collar Galore by The Shapes of Fabric
S. Furrer videos (placket and facings, dart manipulation, sleeves)
sewing samples
fold back cuff drafting

SAM

clues: drop shoulder, cross-over front with button placket, v neck, sleeve placket, no collar but continuous facing around neck and continuing into button placket
resources:
S. Furrer videos and printed book (sleeves, plackets and facings)
sewing samples

HAZEL and SHANNON

clues: stand collar, pleats in the waist and shoulder with front shoulder yokes, front placket with facing, buttons with fabric loops, sleeve with placket, gathers in the neck and front yoke
etsy shirt similar to this one
itch to stich
westin seamed
bronte woven dress (pleating is similar but the treatment of armhole and sleeve is different)
adrielle dress (pleating is similar but the treatment of armhole and sleeve is different)
knipmode dress (pleating is similar but the treatment of armhole and sleeve is different)
asos shirt (pleating is similar but the treatment of armhole and sleeve is different, drape difference in thicker fabric)
karen miller top

resources:
S. Furrer videos (button placket and facings, dart manipulation, collar stand, sleeves)
The Fashion Design Toolkit by Tracy Jennigs
sewing samples

RAJ

clues: traditional shirt with experimental high collar sewn into front placket
resources:
S. Furrer videos
Collar Galore by The Shapes of Fabric
sewing samples

SOFIA

clues: roomy short jacket with raglan sleeves, shirt collar, cross over front, welt pockets
resources:
Collar Galore by The Shapes of Fabric
Patternmaking Made Easy by Connie Amaden-Crawford (drafting raglan sleeve)
S. Furrer videos (jacket drafting, sleeves, plackets, collars)
sewing samples
Angela Kane’s Raglan Sleeve Coat Pattern (for purchase)
Car Coat
Raglan Sleeve Coat (sew along)
sewing samples
Coat Welt Pocket, video 1
Coat Welt Pocket, video 2

MEROLA

needs: sleeves, closure
clues: fitted bodice with empire waist, gathers at the yoke seam
resources:
S. Furrer videos (dart manipulation: gathers and curves video, empire waist, sleeves)
sewing samples
Rosalie dress

GREY

clues: drop shoulder, wide sleeve with gathers, shirt collar
resources:
S. Furrer videos (dart manipulation, empire waist, sleeves)
Collar Galore by The Shapes of Fabric
sewing samples
band and furled cuff
installing eyelets and grommets on fabric

ROWAN

needs: sleeves
clues: pleats
resources:
S. Furrer videos (dart manipulation, pleats, facings/linings)
The Fashion Design Toolkit by Tracy Jennigs
sewing samples

ASA

clues: collars, drop shoulder, pleats, band hem finish (most likely cut on bias)
resources:
S. Furrer videos (dart manipulation, pleats, facings/linings)
Collar Galore by The Shapes of Fabric
band hem finish
sewing samples

LAST SEMESTER’S CHOICES
Alyvia Puff Sleeve. Sewing video.