September 2, week 2

In Class:

1. Instructor Office Hours: Tuesdays and Thursdays, 12-12:50pm, 4-4:50pm or by appointment (in Studio A, Sewing Lab, A4 or Dye Lab, A31). On most Tuesdays and Thursdays I will be at school 5-7pm as well, so this is a great time to set up a time for a fitting.
TA Office Hours: Monday 5-6pm, and Friday 1-3pm (in Sewing Lab, A4)

2. quiz

3. Tracing a moulage draft will be essential to preserve the pattern in its entirety, so that adjustments can be made after the first moulage is sewn up.  Students will be making up to three moulages.  Each paper pattern and sewn moulage will be numbered and all changes will be documented and annotated as instructed.  Proper labeling and storing of paper pattens is expected.  Use unmarked white paper for tracing patterns.

Materials and tools used for tracing and cutting out moulage patters are: unmarked paper, tracing wheel, carbon/wax paper, rulers and paper scissors. Paper may be ironed without steam over the homasote board. Cover a pattern with tape with a clean piece of paper to iron. Students may trace patterns over homasote board with pins or with fabric weights.

4. New Words, New Terms
Trueing Patterns
Trueing a Dart
Firming Up a Dart
Walking the Seam
High Point Shoulder/High Neck Point
Busting a Seam
Staystitching
Basting Stitch (hand versus machine)
Lengthwise Grain (warp): Parallel to the selvage; it’s the most stable.
Crosswise Grain (weft): Perpendicular to the selvage; it has slightly more stretch.
Bias Grain: Diagonal to the warp and weft; allows for the greatest stretch and flexibility.

5. Fabric Preparation
Washing and Pressing the Fabric
Identifying Grainlines
Efficient Placement of Pattern Pieces and Aligning Grainlines
Single vs. Double Layer of Fabric
Pinning Fabric
Adding Seam Allowances
Transferring Markings (notches, dart legs, dart apex) with markings or snips

6. Moulage Construction will be covered on Thursday.

Homework for Next Class:
1. Follow directions in Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper: Tracing, Cutting & Sewing (29:19 min) to trace and cut the moulage patterns.  Follow Natalya’s specific instructions for cutting moulage pattern out of fabric to prepare for construction.    

2. Beginner sewers should watch Practice: Stitches & Seams (16:12 min) chapter in the Startup Library: Sewing class by Sara Alm on Craftsy.  Search for classes offered by this instructor on Craftsy and you should be able to find the Startup Library: Sewing.

3. Watch Pressing Tools by Suzy Furrer (1 hour 26 min) and Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper: Fitting & Troubleshooting (28:47 min) by September 9.