{"id":8154,"date":"2025-01-03T14:38:50","date_gmt":"2025-01-03T19:38:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/courses.ideate.cmu.edu\/99-361\/s2025c\/?page_id=8154"},"modified":"2026-11-01T15:18:15","modified_gmt":"2026-11-01T20:18:15","slug":"detective-tops","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/courses.ideate.cmu.edu\/99-361\/f2026c\/assignments\/detective-tops\/","title":{"rendered":"Pattern Detectives: Woven Tops"},"content":{"rendered":"

AVAILABLE FABRICS (all fabrics are from Nick of Time<\/a>)
\n1. Light Grey Chambray<\/strong>: Plain weave fabric with a dyed warp yarn and a white weft yarn. It is 100% cotton. It wrinkles and requires ironing.
\n2. Black Broadcloth<\/strong>:\u00a0 Tightly woven plain weave cloth. Smooth and lightweight. Drapes and holds its shape.
\n3. Sky Blue, Green, Navy, 6 Ounce Laundered Linen<\/strong>: Medium weight.\u00a0 Frays and wrinkles but is very breathable.\u00a0 Best for relaxed fit.
\n4. White French Twill:<\/strong> Mid-weight cotton with a tight diagonal weave. Accepts reactive dye beautifully without extra preparation.
\n5.\u00a0 Indigo 10 Ounce Denim Made for Wrangler
\n6. Stone, Oxford Shirting
\n7. Oxford Shirting, Lavender
\n8. Indigo Featherweight Denim – 4 Ounce
\n9. Sazon and Khaki, Brushed-Back Bull Denim 9 Ounce<\/strong><\/p>\n

Students will use chapters from the following S. Furrer video classes to complete the Pattern Detectives assignment.\u00a0 Supplemental excerpts from books and other video resources will be provided individually when necessary.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Patternmaking + Design: Creative Sleeves<\/i><\/strong>
\nIntroduction & Getting Started (sloper modifications needed for blouse\/shirt, jacket, coat + how to measure for sleeve sloper)
\nBasic Sleeve Sloper and Tailored Sleeve
\nTwo-Piece Sleeve and Sleeve with Vent
\nSleeve Variation Part 1
\nSleeve Variation Part 2
\nLining, Placket, Pleat and Cuff
\nDrop Shoulder Sleeve and Bodice<\/p>\n

Additional videos regarding sleeves pattern making and sewing are available under Assignment Support: Sleeve Pattern Adjustments<\/a><\/p>\n

Classic Men’s Shirt Drafting Playlist<\/a> from QUT
\nMen’s Shirt Sewing Playlist<\/a> from QUT<\/p>\n

Patternmaking + Design: Creative Necklines Class<\/em><\/strong>
\nBoat Necklines
\nV Necklines
\nSweetheart and Cornered Necklines
\nStrapless, Halter, Grecian Necklines
\nFunnel and Opera Necklines<\/p>\n

Patternmaking + Design: Collars & Closures Class<\/em><\/strong>
\nDrafting Button Plackets
\nCamp Collar and Peter Pan Collar
\nShawl and Partial Roll Collars
\nNapoleon Collar
\nNotched Collar
\nRoll Collar<\/p>\n

Patternmaking + Design: Creative Darts & Seam Lines<\/strong><\/em>
\nBasics of Dart Manipulation
\nDart Variations
\nGathers & Curves
\nDart Wrap-Up
\nPrincess Line to the Armhole
\nPrincess Line Variations
\nEmpire and Baby Doll Lines
\nA-Line, Swing (trapeze), Double Breasted Lines
\nDesigning Garments for Production<\/p>\n

Dart Manipulation Playlist<\/a> from QUT<\/p>\n

Books<\/strong>
\nThe Fashion Design Toolkit<\/em> by Tracy Jennigs
\nCollar Galore<\/em> by The Shapes of Fabric
\nPatternmaking Made Easy<\/em> by Connie Amaden-Crawford
\nMad About Sleeves<\/em> by The Shapes of Fabric<\/p>\n

ONLINE RESOURCES FOR DRAFTING AND SEWING TOPS
\nStudents who chose tops without sleeves, need to add sleeves to the chosen tops.\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong>
\n\"\"
\nmore views of the same shirt can be found here<\/a>
\nclues:<\/strong><\/em> square neckline, collar for square neckline, altered fitted bodice, front placket, sleeves with folded cuff
\nresources:<\/strong>
\nCollar Galore<\/em> by The Shapes of Fabric
\nS. Furrer videos (placket and facings, dart manipulation, sleeves)
\nsewing samples\u00a0<\/a>
\nfold back cuff drafting<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

clues:<\/strong><\/em> drop shoulder, cross-over front with button placket, v neck, sleeve placket, no collar but continuous facing around neck and continuing into button placket
\nresources:
\n<\/strong><\/em>S. Furrer videos and printed book (sleeves, plackets and facings)
\nsewing samples\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"\"\"
\nclues:<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0 stand collar, pleats in the waist and shoulder with front shoulder yokes, front placket with facing, buttons with fabric loops, sleeve with placket, gathers in the neck and front yoke
\netsy shirt similar to this one<\/a>
\nitch to stich<\/a>
\nwestin seamed<\/a>
\nbronte woven dress<\/a> (pleating is similar but the treatment of armhole and sleeve is different)
\nadrielle dress\u00a0<\/a>(pleating is similar but the treatment of armhole and sleeve is different)
\nknipmode dress<\/a> (pleating is similar but the treatment of armhole and sleeve is different)
\nasos shirt<\/a> (pleating is similar but the treatment of armhole and sleeve is different, drape difference in thicker fabric)
\nkaren miller top<\/a><\/p>\n

resources:
\n<\/strong><\/em>S. Furrer videos (button placket and facings, dart manipulation, collar stand, sleeves)
\nThe Fashion Design Toolkit<\/em> by Tracy Jennigs
\nsewing samples\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong>
\n\"\"
\nclues:<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0 traditional shirt with experimental high collar sewn into front placket
\nresources:
\n<\/strong><\/em>S. Furrer videos
\nCollar Galore<\/em> by The Shapes of Fabric
\nsewing samples\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong>
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

clues:<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0 roomy short jacket with raglan sleeves, shirt collar, cross over front, welt pockets
\nresources:
\n<\/strong>Collar Galore<\/em> by The Shapes of Fabric
\nPatternmaking Made Easy<\/em> by Connie Amaden-Crawford (drafting raglan sleeve)
\nS. Furrer videos (jacket drafting, sleeves, plackets, collars)
\nsewing samples\u00a0<\/a>
\nAngela Kane’s Raglan Sleeve Coat Pattern <\/a>(for purchase)
\nCar Coat\u00a0<\/a>
\nRaglan Sleeve Coat<\/a> (sew along)
\nsewing samples\u00a0<\/a>
\nCoat Welt Pocket, video 1<\/a>
\nCoat Welt Pocket, video 2<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong>
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

needs: <\/i><\/b>sleeves, closure
\nclues:<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0 fitted bodice with empire waist, gathers at the yoke seam
\nresources:
\n<\/strong><\/em>S. Furrer videos (dart manipulation: gathers and curves video, empire waist, sleeves)
\n<\/strong><\/em>sewing samples\u00a0<\/a>
\n<\/em>Rosalie dress<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"
\nclues:<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0 drop shoulder, wide sleeve with gathers, shirt collar
\nresources:
\n<\/strong><\/em>S. Furrer videos (dart manipulation, empire waist, sleeves)
\nCollar Galore<\/em> by The Shapes of Fabric
\n<\/strong><\/em>sewing samples\u00a0<\/a>
\nband and furled cuff<\/a>
\ninstalling eyelets and grommets on fabric<\/a><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong>
\n\"\"
\nneeds<\/strong>: sleeves
\nclues:<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0 pleats
\nresources:
\n<\/strong><\/em>S. Furrer videos (dart manipulation, pleats, facings\/linings)
\nThe Fashion Design Toolkit<\/em> by Tracy Jennigs
\nsewing samples\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong>
\n\"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

clues:<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0 collars, drop shoulder, pleats, band hem finish (most likely cut on bias)
\nresources:
\n<\/strong><\/em>S. Furrer videos (dart manipulation, pleats, facings\/linings)
\nCollar Galore<\/em> by The Shapes of Fabric
\nband hem finish<\/a>
\nsewing samples\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n

\u00a0Alyvia Puff Sleeve<\/a>.\u00a0 Sewing video.
\n\"\"\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

70s Puffed Sleeve Top<\/a>.\u00a0 Video of drafting process and sewing video available.
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

Crop Top with Underbust<\/a>. Video of drafting and sewing with a much more drapy fabric.
\nAnother video<\/a> of drafting this top without sleeves and buttons<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Calenzana<\/a>.\u00a0 Free pattern.
\nconstruction in french, version 1<\/a> (you can see how the top looks in thick cotton at the end)
\nconstruction in french, version<\/a>
\nsewing a separating zipper\u00a0<\/a>
\nhow to shorten a separating zipper<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Frankie Dress<\/a>. Not a free pattern. Sew along for Frankie dress.<\/a>
\nsimilar style top drafting and sewing<\/a>
\nadding gathers in waist and shoulder area without empire (drafting)<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

Butterick B6841. Available in class as paper pattern.
\nquick overview of the sewing steps<\/a>
\ndetailed sew along part 1<\/a>
\ndetailed sew along part 2<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

V8759. Available in class as paper pattern.
\n\"\" \"\"\u00a0<\/strong>
\nPaola Workwear Jacket.<\/a> Pattern available as free download.
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

Riley Shirt With Oversized Cuffs<\/a>.\u00a0 Free pattern.
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

Tie Front Peplum Blouse<\/a>.\u00a0 Free pattern and sewing video (website difficult to navigate).
\nBow Tie Closure<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Peter Pan Collar Shirt<\/a>.\u00a0 Free Pattern
\nSewing Peter Pan Shirt<\/a>
\nAntoinette Shirt Sewing Video<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

Cottage Blouse with Pin Tucks and Ruffles
\nDrafting<\/a>
\nConstruction<\/a>
\nLace Insertions<\/a>.\u00a0 Technical video. Requires stable cotton fabric.
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

Hacked Elliot Top<\/a>. Link to original pattern (free pattern or pay what you want), hacking link, construction notes.
\nHacked Elliot Top #2<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

Esme Ruffled Blouse.<\/a> Paid pattern.\u00a0 Sew Along.<\/a>
\n\"\"
\ndrafting of flounce trimmed blouse, part 1<\/a>
\ndrafting of flounce trimmed blouse, part 2<\/a><\/p>\n

Tribeca Blouse<\/a> Free pattern and sewing video (in french).
\n\"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

AVAILABLE FABRICS (all fabrics are from Nick of Time) 1. Light Grey Chambray: Plain weave fabric with a dyed warp yarn and a white weft…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":67,"featured_media":0,"parent":6242,"menu_order":2,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-8154","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/courses.ideate.cmu.edu\/99-361\/f2026c\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/8154","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/courses.ideate.cmu.edu\/99-361\/f2026c\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/courses.ideate.cmu.edu\/99-361\/f2026c\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/courses.ideate.cmu.edu\/99-361\/f2026c\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/67"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/courses.ideate.cmu.edu\/99-361\/f2026c\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8154"}],"version-history":[{"count":82,"href":"https:\/\/courses.ideate.cmu.edu\/99-361\/f2026c\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/8154\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9814,"href":"https:\/\/courses.ideate.cmu.edu\/99-361\/f2026c\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/8154\/revisions\/9814"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/courses.ideate.cmu.edu\/99-361\/f2026c\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/6242"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/courses.ideate.cmu.edu\/99-361\/f2026c\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8154"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}