This is when I ran into problems, as I couldn’t find a deer template with the low-poly geometries that I had wanted to create a mask, and therefore I attempted to create my own pattern. I used plasticine and a wireframe to model a deer head. I then would try to create facets by cutting off faces on the model, but I soon realized that the faces I created were not precise and it was difficult to maintain clean edges between faces. I opted for another approach, to cut out pieces in paper and then impose them onto the model, but I realized that this was very tedious since the pieces needed to be exact, and the plasticine model needed to be adjusted every time.

Hence, I scrapped the idea to use plasticine, and instead explored 3D modeling. I taught myself how to create low-poly models from higher resolution models, and then export them to a papercraft program to unfold and transform into templates. However, I ran into further trouble when I couldn’t find any deer head models that fit my needs. I also did not have any 3D modeling experience.

From my exploration of deer head models, I did find a model of a deer skull that I thought would make an impressive model, although not a mask. Therefore, I went ahead and made the deer skull. Starting with the digital template, I scaled the model up to the size I had wanted, and printed them on 11 x 17 inch construction paper I had cut out.

I then began constructing my model, carefully cutting out each piece and gluing them together. I first made one half of the head, then the other, and then piecing them together down the middle. I then made the antlers, leaving one slightly unfinished. After our critique, I actually preferred the unfinished look to what I had originally planned. I remember a comment during my critique mentioned that the raw look of the model is what made it unique, and differentiated it from something that could have been bought premade. I also ended up making a display stand from wire so that it could be put up on a wall.

From this project, I learned a lot about how to approach papercraft, about techniques to gluing that would ensure a proper hold between pieces, about ways to create straight and clean folds, and a little about 3D modeling as well. If I were to make the project again, I would definitely look more into 3D modeling, and perhaps use a faster drying glue to speed the construction process.

For the subject of my Doppelganger, I chose to replicate a PS3 controller. While patterning, I already suspected that the construction process would be difficult due to the many round seams and overall round shape of the controller. This was especially apparent when I had to match the seams after I had cut the patterns out, as I had trouble finding which piece was supposed to go where. Furthermore, the pieces needed to be manipulated to form a uniform seam over which I could sew with the sewing machine, but this required a lot of pins that made sewing harder on a small scale. As a result, there were a lot of parts that required hand sewing. However, I learned a lot about how seams can affect the final shape of an object, and by having curved seams the final object will look rounder and more dynamic. If I were to redo this project, I would have scaled the pieces up so that the construction would be easier, as well as label each piece more carefully with line marks along to the seams to which I could match pieces together. I chose to leave to details from the actual PS3 controller out such as the buttons and the joysticks because I liked the simplicity of the doppelganger. It brings out the seam lines which show how the pieces were patterned together, something that is absent on the actual controller itself.