I read the chapter “The Contemporary Kimono” in the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, written by Sheila Cliffe, a kimono researcher and author. The article details the history, construction, industry, development, and culture surrounding the kimono, a signature garment of Japan typically consisting of a floor-length robe wrapped around the body. Kimonos come in a range of styles, from casual to formal, with differences in methods of production and wear. Cliffe explains a variety of kimono types meant for certain occasions, from the shiro muku wedding gown to the iro muji for tea ceremonies. The author discusses the evolution of the kimono over time that came with social, technological, and cultural changes in Japan. For example, as women’s roles in society changed over time, so did the garments they wore. An example is the hakama, or trouser skirt, which indicated the more active lifestyle of a samurai wife. Before the early twentieth century, kimonos were ubiquitous across Japan. The 1950s marked a major shift in Japanese dress, as western clothing became very popular. Yet, the kimono continues to retain its special significance in Japanese social life, as it is the preferred dress for festivals, ceremonies, and other occasions. Additionally, the influences of kimono are present in fashion in art internationally, seen in motifs, methods, and structures. Cliffe concludes with a section on controversies about the kimono, dismantling myths about the influence of European thought on the birth of fashion systems, the evolution of the garment, and the misuse of the term kimono.
This article was quite fascinating to read, as I have always been curious about the history of the kimono. I was particularly interested in learning about the slow and subtle changes in the kimono over time, and how the fashion/dressing system of the kimono has transformed according to political, economic, social, and technological factors. The author’s discussion of misunderstandings and controversies related to the kimono was particularly thought-provoking, and I found this quote insightful: “Some have argued that the kimono takes no account of the size of the human figure, because it is not shaped, like Western dress. This is a misunderstanding, as the fitting takes place during the dressing process rather than during the cutting of the cloth, which means that it can actually be fitted perfectly to the body rather than the wearer choosing a generic size, which might or might not fit his or her body well” (Cliffe).
I think it’s really cool that the form from the Kimono comes from dressing rather than cutting the fabric. Because of how expensive the material can be, this makes perfect sense! I’m surprised that more modern clothes haven’t thought of dressing that way, i.e. leaving the wearer to fit the garment as they see fit.
It’s super interesting that kimonos were so common in everyday Japanese wear up until the twentieth century with the introduction of Western clothing. I also was not aware that the kimono had so many types and was so versatile, perhaps due to its timeless aesthetic.
When I was writing my Cultural Garments post, I was struggling to figure out what to look for and it didn’t cross my mind to look at kimonos! I am personally very drawn towards Japanese culture too, so naturally, I found your article to be fascinating. Something I found interesting between this and the article I read is that the significance of kimonos are retained even till now while in France, the cultural/societal role of how people dress became revolutionized and evolved/influenced new trends throughout the years. This contrast makes me wonder, what makes a type of garment with such a long history timeless?
Caitlyn, Lee, Franky, Sarah, such interesting questions you are asking based upon the article. How does form and function play a role in fashion is designed? How does the action of dressing affect fashion? Why does one culture have fashions the change dramatically over time and another culture’s clothing has smaller changes? Why does change happen in fashion and garments at all? Why doesn’t it happen more than it does? Lots of food for reflection.