January 22, week 2
In Class:
Instructor Office Hours: Mondays and Wednesdays, 12-1pm, 4-5pm or by appointment (in Studio A, Sewing Lab, A4 or Dye Lab, A31)
TA Office Hours: 5-7pm, Tuesdays (in Sewing Lab, A4)
1. quiz
2. Tracing a moulage draft will be essential to preserve the pattern in its entirety, so that adjustments can be made after the first moulage is sewn up. Students will be making up to three moulages minimum. Each paper pattern and sewn moulage will be numbered and all changes will be documented and annotated as instructed. Proper labeling and storing of paper pattens is expected. Use unmarked white paper for tracing patterns.
Materials and tools used for tracing and cutting out moulage patters are: unmarked paper, tracing wheel, carbon/wax paper, rulers and paper scissors. Paper may be ironed without steam over the homasote board. Cover a pattern with tape with a clean piece of paper to iron. Students may trace patterns over homasote board with pins or with fabric weights and over poster board.
3. New Words, New Terms
Trueing Patterns
Trueing a Dart
Firming Up a Dart
Walking the Seam
High Point Shoulder/High Neck Point
Busting a Seam
Staystitching
Basting Stitch (hand versus machine)
Lengthwise Grain (warp): Parallel to the selvage; it’s the most stable.
Crosswise Grain (weft): Perpendicular to the selvage; it has slightly more stretch.
Bias Grain: Diagonal to the warp and weft; allows for the greatest stretch and flexibility.
4. Fabric Preparation
Washing and Pressing the Fabric
Identifying Grainlines
Efficient Placement of Pattern Pieces and Aligning Grainlines
Single vs. Double Layer of Fabric
Pinning Fabric
Adding Seam Allowances
Transferring Markings (notches, dart legs, dart apex) with markings or snips
5. Moulage Construction will be covered Friday, January 24, 6:10-8:10pm during the additional sewing session. Beginner sewers should also plan on attending Thursday, January 23, 6:10-8:10pm to practice sewing with Natalya.
Homework for Next Class:
1. Sew Moulage #1.
The unwashed muslin available for our class is very starchy. For this reason, do not bust seams with iron/steam but finger press until we start using washed/laundered muslin. You may iron the muslin with steam in preparation for cutting, just not after the patterns are cut.
Follow directions in Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper: Tracing, Cutting & Sewing (29:19 min) to trace and cut the moulage patterns. Follow Natalya’s specific instructions for assembling the moulage. Attend the additional sewing session over the weekend for help with sewing (Thursday 6:10pm-8:10pm and Friday 6:10pm-8:10pm).
Beginner sewers should watch Practice: Stitches & Seams (16:12 min) in the Startup Library: Sewing class by Sara Alm on Craftsy. Search for classes offered by this instructor on Craftsy and you should be able to find the Startup Library: Sewing.
2. Write down the length of muslin you are using for moulage #1 + 8″ on the piece of paper I hung on the wall with Kat’s moulage #1 patterns. Measure the length after you lay out all of the moulage patterns with seam allowances included, with grainline mark on the patterns aligned to the selvage of the muslin. The extra 8″ is to account for shrinkage of the fabric and any extensions you may need to do on your patterns after moulage 1. Kat will be laundering the fabric for Moulage 2 and Moulage 3.
3. Watch Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper: Fitting & Troubleshooting (28:47 min)
4. Watch Pressing Tools by Suzy Furrer (1 hour 26 min) by January 29
