Final Project – Michael Powell
Intentions:
For this final assignment I wanted to build on the topic of my textile talk (fringe). This piece is a part of a larger series of work to be completed with my peer for Lunar Gala. While it is in principle about the use of fringe to emphasize various techniques for garment construction. Other looks to be made emphasize things like the shoulders, storm patches, sleeves, seams, etc. This piece is focused on techniques of applique.
The base of the design is a contemporary duster, understanding it as an evolution from bespoke British outerwear and trench coats. The spots of applique are intended to crawl across the garment and begin to encroach and overwhelm specific regions of the piece. This idea of encroachment is intended to expand and envelope the various pieces within the series.
Process:
The entire piece was constructed from scratch. I began by creating a muslin mock-up of the basic garment that I was able to fit on the person the jacket is being designed for. From there, I began constructing the final piece making the outer layers of the jacket out of the camel colored wool. Once the basics and collar were constructed, I began working on creating the fringe from scratch.
In order to make the fringe, I created a basic board that would allow for a consistent length, and desired amount of fringe for each one of the applique spots. After the fringe was wrapped, I sewed a straight stitch across the fringe against a piece of muslin to provide some backing. The muslin was then trimmed, and folded to finish the fringe itself. The fringe was then applied to the perimeter of the lighter-khaki colored spots which were backed by muslin. The spots, with attached fringe, were then pinned to the jacket to try and find the most ideal positioning.
From here, I worked to figure out how to construct a lining for the innards of the jacket (quite a challenge). With the lining attached, I was then able to finish all of the edges to seal the jacket.
Learning:
Throughout the process I learned a number of techniques ranging from the basics of making a jacket, working with kick pleats, rough lining, fringe, applique and more. There was a very large learning curve that is only just beginning to be understood. If I could go back, I would be more careful in the crafting of each spot, and try to better understand how to connect the lining to the multiple panels.
Final Piece:
