Franky – 99-361 A: Garment Patterning, Construction, and Experimentation https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a Fri, 14 May 2021 18:43:18 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.7.11 https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/cropped-site_icon.jpg Franky – 99-361 A: Garment Patterning, Construction, and Experimentation https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a 32 32 Gay Stuntwear Unlocked https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/gay-stuntwear-unlocked/ https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/gay-stuntwear-unlocked/#respond Fri, 14 May 2021 14:50:07 +0000 https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/?p=6549 Continue reading "Gay Stuntwear Unlocked"]]> I have done it! Here are the pants I wanted to wear and didn’t want to buy. I’m happy with how the heart cutouts hang. I have not added the buttons to them since they have not come in yet so i sewed a hook and eye below where the buttons will be.

Experience: AAAAAH this took so much time! I really loved doing this project but felt like I rushed a bit towards the end. I’m still very pleased with it moving forward.

Successes: It fits! The pockets work! The waistband can hold my belt, and I can crouch in these pants.

Mistakes: Hemming was a nightmare, and tailoring the canvas copy made me want to die because of how thicccccck the fabric was. Also finishing the seam was gross BUT my legs seams are finished

Future direction: I loved making these pants, and would love to make pants again.

]]>
https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/gay-stuntwear-unlocked/feed/ 0
*Updates* – Franky Moore https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/updates-franky-moore-2/ https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/updates-franky-moore-2/#respond Wed, 05 May 2021 16:13:26 +0000 https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/?p=6380 Have done bias tape around half of the cut-outs. Figured out a way to minimize wrinkles by cutting heart into quarters for sewing.

Visual Portfolio, Posts & Image Gallery for WordPress
]]>
https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/updates-franky-moore-2/feed/ 0
*Updates* – Franky Moore https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/updates-franky-moore/ https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/updates-franky-moore/#respond Mon, 03 May 2021 15:57:24 +0000 https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/?p=6326 Continue reading "*Updates* – Franky Moore"]]> I made the pattern pieces from the sloper, transferred the design to canvas, and added additional pieces for the waistband based on a favorite pair of levis. I have cut out all the pattern pieces out of their respective fabric with seam allowance, and have ironed interfacing to all necessary pieces, including the waistband and bands to hold belt in. The next step is to cut the hearts out, and bias tape the pant leg ones and not the butt-hearts because I will do those with the back length crotch seam.

Visual Portfolio, Posts & Image Gallery for WordPress

]]>
https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/updates-franky-moore/feed/ 0
Sample Set #5 – Franky Moore https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/sample-set-5-franky-moore/ https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/sample-set-5-franky-moore/#respond Sat, 24 Apr 2021 00:32:21 +0000 https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/?p=6173 Continue reading "Sample Set #5 – Franky Moore"]]> This sample set was a bit of a hot mess because I tried to complete it before the videos were up. I had to completely redo the fly zipper because of this, and lost the zipper head. I am saving the third zipper for the muslin sloper of my final, and was able to redo that and the edge pocket, both of which turned out pretty ok.

]]>
https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/sample-set-5-franky-moore/feed/ 0
Final Project Pattern – Franky Moore https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/final-project-pattern-franky-moore/ https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/final-project-pattern-franky-moore/#respond Mon, 19 Apr 2021 15:06:23 +0000 https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/?p=6070 Continue reading "Final Project Pattern – Franky Moore"]]> This was a bit difficult due to the waistband and my choice to remove the back dart. I am using a straight waistband based on a favorite pair of jeans, and forgot to add 4 cm of underwrap but will do so on the sloper. I removed the single back dart by removing 3/4 cm on the side seam and CB from the top of the waistband and made sure that the inseam and side seam for the back went down the length of the dart. I also added 4 cm crutch ease, which differed from the proposed 1 cm crutch ease on the 1/4 sloper.

I also used the numbered pattern paper instead of the brown paper. I can redraw with the pattern paper if necessary.

]]>
https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/final-project-pattern-franky-moore/feed/ 0
Advanced Sewing Samples – Franky Moore https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/advanced-sewing-samples-franky-moore/ https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/advanced-sewing-samples-franky-moore/#respond Mon, 05 Apr 2021 19:43:57 +0000 https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/?p=5647

I had problems with the facing, I did not make the front and back long enough, so I modified the blouse so that I wouldn’t have to recut and re-iron the mesh onto the facing pattern bits.

]]>
https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/advanced-sewing-samples-franky-moore/feed/ 0
Full Garment – Franky Moore https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/full-garment-franky-moore/ https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/full-garment-franky-moore/#respond Mon, 05 Apr 2021 16:49:53 +0000 https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/?p=5628 Continue reading "Full Garment – Franky Moore"]]> I wanted to create an inspiration board for my garment and pin down ideas that have been floating around in my head. The first tiles below were what got my mind churning about hot pink and yellow together in a pant, courtesy of Violet Chachki.

Visual Portfolio, Posts & Image Gallery for WordPress

The next tiles are what inspired the idea of heart cut-outs. I also like the aesthetic of that heart shape, and that was added to potential ideas for the full garment.

Visual Portfolio, Posts & Image Gallery for WordPress

Finally I found images of chaps rather than assless pants which I could use as design ideas for the actual shaping of the pants themselves. In this case, I want a slightly looser fit throughout the leg, like in the image on the left, but still want the garment to be snug around the bum. This would include the fabric that stretches down from the waistband between my cheeks to connect at my upper thigh.

Visual Portfolio, Posts & Image Gallery for WordPress

With all of these images and ideas swirling, the garment coalesced. Instead of chaps, I would make assless pants. They would be a light shade of pink or brighter with goldenrod hearts all over. I am still torn between having the hearts be cut-out or having them be a different shade of the main fabric for the pant altogether. The pants would sit relatively high on my waist, have a bulky goldenrod industrial zipper in the front with a yellow button. Close fitting but not tight fit throughout the leg. Would be tight in hips, with butt area surrounded by goldenrod bias tape regardless of heart decision. Would have a strap from high waist to upper thigh to keep pants in place. Hem would hit ankle.

Visual Portfolio, Posts & Image Gallery for WordPress
]]>
https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/full-garment-franky-moore/feed/ 0
Paper Patterns – Franky Moore https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/paper-patterns/ https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/paper-patterns/#respond Wed, 31 Mar 2021 16:37:31 +0000 https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/?p=5583
Visual Portfolio, Posts & Image Gallery for WordPress
]]>
https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/paper-patterns/feed/ 0
Muslin Slopers Final – Franky Moore https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/muslin-slopers-final/ https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/muslin-slopers-final/#respond Mon, 29 Mar 2021 17:01:39 +0000 https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/?p=5475 Continue reading "Muslin Slopers Final – Franky Moore"]]>

I had problems with the images so here is also the google drive link to higher resolution images: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AFB0E7fTAwljxBvB2uZ9xYCvpMiexkb3?usp=sharing

Visual Portfolio, Posts & Image Gallery for WordPress

There were several modifications to the bodice and minimal modifications to the trouser.

First, the trousers were shortened by 2.2 cm at the hipline, and 4.2 cm at the ankle. The hem was also shortened by ~4 cm. The back crotch was extended by 1 cm.

For the sleeves, 5cm of ease was added on either side and slanted down towards the wrist. Overall, the biceps were widened by 4.2 cm at the bicep and narrowed by 2.5 cm at the wrist.

For the bodice, the back darts were widened to 5.6 cm, the front darts were lowered by 1 cm and narrowed by 0.4 cm. The side seam was widened by 1.2 cm. The armscye was also lowered by 1.2 cm and the curve was extended to “end”/merge at the original armscye at the back point, and extended the front curve 1cm past the mark of the original armscye.

]]>
https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/muslin-slopers-final/feed/ 0
Trouser Sloper – Franky Moore https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/trouser-sloper-franky-moore/ https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/trouser-sloper-franky-moore/#respond Mon, 15 Mar 2021 17:13:13 +0000 https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/?p=5307
Visual Portfolio, Posts & Image Gallery for WordPress
]]>
https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/99-361/s2021a/trouser-sloper-franky-moore/feed/ 0