Pattern Sleuths: Woven Tops
AVAILABLE FABRICS
1. Light Grey Chambray: Plain weave fabric with a dyed warp yarn and a white weft yarn. It is 100% cotton. It wrinkles and requires ironing.
2. Black Broadcloth: Tightly woven plain weave cloth. Smooth and lightweight. Drapes and holds its shape.
3. Sky Blue, 6 Ounce Laundered Linen: Medium weight. Frays and wrinkles but is very breathable. Best for relaxed fit.
4. White French Twill: Mid-weight cotton with a tight diagonal weave. Accepts reactive dye beautifully without extra preparation.
STUDENTS WILL USE CHAPTERS FROM THE FOLLOWING CLASSES TO UNDERSTAND DRAFTING OF TOPS. Supplemental excerpts from books will be provided individually.
Patternmaking + Design: Creative Sleeves
Introduction & Getting Started (sloper modifications needed for blouse/shirt, jacket, coat + how to measure for sleeve sloper)
Basic Sleeve Sloper and Tailored Sleeve
Two-Piece Sleeve and Sleeve with Vent
Sleeve Variation Part 1
Sleeve Variation Part 2
Lining, Placket, Pleat and Cuff
Drop Shoulder Sleeve and Bodice
Patternmaking + Design: Creative Necklines Class
Boat Necklines
V Necklines
Sweetheart and Cornered Necklines
Strapless, Halter, Grecian Necklines
Funnel and Opera Necklines
Patternmaking + Design: Collars & Closures Class
Drafting Button Plackets
Camp Collar and Peter Pan Collar
Shawl and Partial Roll Collars
Napoleon Collar
Notched Collar
Roll Collar
Patternmaking + Design: Creative Darts & Seam Lines
Basics of Dart Manipulation
Dart Variations
Gathers & Curves
Dart Wrap-Up
Princess Line to the Armhole
Princess Line Variations
Empire and Baby Doll Lines
A-Line, Swing (trapeze), Double Breasted Lines
Designing Garments for Production
ONLINE RESOURCES FOR DRAFTING AND SEWING TOPS.
YLYA, OLIVIA
1. Alyvia Puff Sleeve. Pattern available as free download with sewing video.
2. Charlie Linen Puff Sleeve. Inspiration only. No pattern or sewing video.
shirring tutorial (shirring is used on the back of this shirt; will require purchasing elastic thread)
3. 70s Puffed Sleeve Top. Video of drafting process and sewing video available.
4. Crop Top with Underbust. Video of drafting and sewing with a much more drapey fabric.
Another video of drafting this top without sleeves and buttons.
5. Calenzana. Free pattern.
construction in french, version 1 (you can see how the top looks in thick cotton at the end)
construction in french, version
6. Frankie Dress. Free pattern.
LUCY, IRIS
Check out The Assembly Line patterns.
1. Butterick B6841. Available in class as paper pattern.
quick overview of the sewing steps
detailed sew along part 1
detailed sew along part 2
2. V8759. Available in class as paper pattern.
3. Paola Workwear Jacket. Pattern available as free download.
4. Riley Shirt With Oversized Cuffs. Free pattern.
SARAH, STACY
1. Tie Front Peplum Blouse. Free pattern and sewing video (website difficult to navigate).
Bow Tie Closure
2. Peter Pan Collar Shirt. Free Pattern
Sewing Peter Pan Shirt
Antoinette Shirt Sewing Video
3. Cottage Blouse with Pin Tucks and Ruffles
Drafting
Construction
Lace Insertions. Technical video. Requires stable cotton fabric.
4. Hacked Elliot Top. Link to original pattern (free pattern or pay what you want), hacking link, construction notes.
Hacked Elliot Top #2
5. Esme Ruffled Blouse. Paid pattern. Sew Along.
drafting of flounce trimmed blouse, part 1
drafting of flounce trimmed blouse, part 2
Natalya
1. Tribeca Blouse Free pattern and sewing video (in french).
