Sleeveless Shell


Sleeveless Shell (Female Drafting System)

Students using the female drafting system will draft a Sleeveless Shell. Work through the steps in this order:

  1. Watch the assigned videos.

    Patternmaking + Design: Creative Darts & Seam Lines

    • The Basics of Dart Manipulation (37:02)
    • Dart Variations (34:13)
    • Dart Wrap Up (28:32)

    Designing Your Wardrobe: Drafting Tops

    • Sleeveless Shell (29:54)
    • Closures, Edge Finishes and Pattern Standards (28:28)
  2. Draft the front. Use your slopers to draft a Sleeveless Shell working pattern. Use a dart manipulation of your choice, and follow the video’s suggestions for the neckline and shoulder.
  3. Draft the back.
    • Draft a V-shaped opening large enough for your head to pass through (at least 24″).
    • Include a shoulder dart and back contouring, but no waist dart.
    • If you like, close the V opening with a loop and button.
  4. Make a toile/muslin to confirm proportions and fit. Why make a toile/muslin?
    1. Add a 1/4″ seam allowance around the neck and a 1/2″ seam allowance everywhere else.
    2. Cut the toile from muslin, washed or unwashed.
    3. Staystitch around the neck and armhole.
    4. Sew the toile with the front as one panel and the back as two panels.
  5. Plan your finishes.
    • Finish the armhole and neckline with either a full lining or facings.
    • Choose seam finishes for the side seams and the hem. Serger finishing is allowed only on seams that are not visible on the inside.
    • Facings must have a neat finish.
  6. Sew the Sleeveless Shell in your fashion fabric, using the finishes you chose. Refer to the hem options document below when you finish the hem.

Hems

Students in the class can download a document outlining hem options.