November 2, week 10
Students who have fallen behind must email me or bring to class a day-by-day plan outlining how they intend to catch up on the Sleeveless Shell/Tunic while also completing their fitted sleeve sloper.
Plan ahead for your final project. It will require at least 2–3 weeks of dedicated work. Please review the adjusted class schedule (see Class Notes, October 19) alongside your other commitments and deadlines. Work backward from the end of the semester to develop a realistic, detailed plan of action that allows you to stay on track and dedicate sufficient time to your final project.
Friday, December 11, 8:30–11:30 a.m.
Presentation: Breaking Down the Drafting of Tops: Necklines, Contouring, Sleeves, Collars, Closures.
This is in preparation for Pattern Detectives: Woven Tops. It provides an overview of how to analyze the patterning of an existing design. Students will apply this way of thinking to hack found designs, combining adaptations of existing patterns with drafting from scratch to figure out how their chosen top is constructed.
Students who choose to make pants for their final assignment will follow instructions in Pattern Detectives: Pants. Students making pants are still required to draft and sew a fitted sleeve.
Folder with book excerpts that will be useful for Pattern Detectives.
Demo: Sewing a Set-In Sleeve
Drafting of a Fitted Sleeve
Patternmaking + Design: S. Furrer’s Creative Sleeves course:
- Introduction and Getting Started, 44:33 mins
- Basic Sleeve Sloper and Tailor Sleeve, 51:42 mins
Sewing a Set In Sleeve
- Threads Magazine Sleeves 101, part 1 (overview of set in sleeve), 6 mins
- Threads Magazine Sewing Set In Sleeve, part 2 (how to sew a set in sleeve), 6 mins
- Set In Sleeve with 2 Methods (use method 1 but watch the whole video), 22 mins
- How to Set In Sleeves (article with images about how to set in sleeves)
- How to Sew a Set in Sleeve (great overview on how to sew a set in sleeve), 6 mins
Sleeve Cap and Biceps Relationship
- Modifying Sleeve for Better Mobility (Threads Magazine), 11 mins
- Sleeve Pattern Adjustments, GRD 14 mins
- Alter Sleeve Pattern for Larger Biceps, 16 mins
- How Cap Height Changes Sleeves, 2 mins
Sleeve Designs
Patternmaking of Sleeves Playlist from QUT
Nov. 4: Fitted Sleeve Draft Using the Sloper as the Bodice.
Watch:
Patternmaking + Design: S. Furrer’s Creative Sleeves course:
- Introduction and Getting Started, 44:33 mins
- Basic Sleeve Sloper and Tailor Sleeve, 51:42 mins
Students will use their sloper as the bodice pattern, extended to the waist.
- Back: Cut on the fold, with shoulder darts.
- Front: Use two front panels, each with one dart.
- Front center seam: Sew the center seam, leaving the top 4–6 inches open near the neck so the bodice can be pulled over the head.
- Side seams: Adjust the fit to your preference.
- Front Armscye Dart, Back Shoulder Dart + 1/4″ extra length:
From the instruction for blouse with sleeve bodice adjustments in Introduction and Getting Started in S. Furrer’s Creative Sleeves class, students keep the back shoulder dart and add 1/4″ to the back shoulder length in order to add extra ease. Armscye dart is not sewn out unless student’s cup is size D and above.