September 9, week 3

 

In Class

A fitting is the process of testing and refining a garment’s fit on a body to ensure comfort, proportion, and proper shaping.

A muslin toile (also called a mock-up or a muslin) is a test garment made from inexpensive fabric that replicates the pattern. It is meant to check proportions, fit, balance, and style before cutting into fashion fabric. Making a toile saves time, fabric, and frustration later because adjustments can be tested and visualized without risking expensive material.

Fitting Process:

1. Observation and Assessment

  • Locate and evaluate bust apex points.
  • Confirm that the waistline is in the correct position.
  • Evaluate the neckline and armholes for accuracy and overall appearance (lies smoothly against the base of the neck)
  • Check the placement of the shoulder seams.
  • Confirm that side seams are perpendicular to the floor and divide the body in a visually pleasant way when seen from the side.
  • Check the placement of Horizontal Balance Lines (HBLs) to see if the garment hangs evenly. Horizontal Balance Lines act as “checkpoints” during muslin fittings. If they tilt, rise, or dip, it shows you where the garment is not balanced on the body and what adjustments are needed. These can be marked on the pattern and transferred to the muslin before it is sewn. If you forget to add them before sewing, they can be added once the muslin is sewn by placing the fabric over the pattern in sections and transferring the markings. HBL lines for moulage are: 2-4″ above the waist (between bust and waist), high hip or hem line.
  • Waistline and hemline are parallel to the floor.

2. Reading the Fabric

  • Observe how the muslin “speaks”: wrinkles, pulls, draglines, folds, and bubbles reveal stress or excess fabric.
  • Do you see horizontal, vertical, or diagonal wrinkles? Are areas really tight or loose?

3. Manipulating the Muslin

  • Cut/slash to release tension and allow the fabric to spread.
  • Pin or tape closed to remove excess ease.
  • Always mark directly on the toile so changes can be accurately transferred back to the pattern. Note whether each correction applies to both front and back, or only one side.

4. Transferring Adjustments

  • Trace the original Moulage 1 pattern onto a clean piece of paper. Identify the copy with your name, date, copy of Moulage 1.
  • Incorporate the corrections from the toile into the traced copy using a different colored pencil/marker.
  • This adjusted version becomes Moulage 2—a refined pattern that moves closer to the final fit.

Homework
  1. Watch Fitting & Troubleshooting (28:47 mins) chapter in Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper.
  2. Begin reading the assigned pdf documents. DO NOT SKIP THIS. Extract important information from the readings in your notebook. Readings listed in order of priority:
    1. Fitting Strategies and Pinning – Smart Fitting Solutions
    2. Rosann-Smart Fitting Solutions
    3. Sarah-Smart fitting solutions
    4. The Fitting Book-Demystifying Diagonal Draglines
    5. Bodice Alterations
    6. Excerpts from Complete Guide to Perfect Fitting
  3. Monday is in-class fitting day. Students who do not get fitted in class on Monday will need to sign up for a fitting outside of class. Sewn up Moulage 2 will be fitted during Week 4.