August 26, week 1

https://www.science.org/content/article/why-human-societies-still-use-arms-feet-and-other-body-parts-measure-things

In Class
  1. quiz 1
  2. Why take notes while watching videos?
  3. Students divide into groups and exchange contact information. Natalya distributes soft measure and elastic.
  4. Where is our waist?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Dp9NqHEVQU&ab_channel=SamWebster

    Where is the scapula and clavicle (collarbone)?

    https://www.instagram.com/reel/DHh1MqAxRBV/

    https://www.maguireearlyorthopedics.com/shoulder-anatomy-pediatric-orthopaedic-trauma-surgeon-santa-barbara-pismo-beach-ca/

  5. Posture and preparing for measuring with elastic and tape.
  6. Fourteen measurements from the video (skip the underbust measurement) + 3 additional measurements: depth of cross front, depth of cross back, upper bust (underarm) circumference.
    Note that in the videos, S. Furrer measures the underbust circumference. This measurement is taken to calculate the cup size. In her most recent book Building Patterns: Ultimate Guide to Designing Patterns for Clothing, Furrer changed the recommendation for how to calculate the cup size. The new method requires the upper bust (underarm) circumference. Students will calculate cup size using the updated method. Follow the fitting tip in the Measurements, Calculations, and References for Feminine Figure handout.

    Note that in the video the depth of cross front and cross back is not measured in relationship to other body markers (ex. waist, dip between collarbones). Instead Suzy is using industry standards. For example, when drafting the back moulage, Suzy places cross back at 1/4 of back length. It will be handy to have your unique depth of cross front and depth of cross back measurements on hand to see how that compares to the industry standard she is using. You will be using the industry standard S. Furrer mentions to draft.



    This image shows in green the updates S. Furrer implemented in the recent book for the calculations that are used in the drafting of the Feminine Figure system. The Craftsy videos will not have these changes.
  7. Setting up for the drafting of Moulage. Which paper to use? Which tools? Chapter: Calculating & Setting Up the Moulage (24:51 mins)
  8. Pinterest invitations.

Homework for Week 2


Attention! Sewing Lab/A4 Far will be occupied with Soft Fabrication Micro students on Saturday, August 29, September 5, September 12, 10:30am-3:30pm. A4 Near will be available. Students can check out a sewing machine from Lending and work in A4 Near. It is okay for students to borrow tools from A4 Far while Soft Fabrication is in progress.


Ylia will be available for her office hours in A4 Near this Saturday 10am-noon and Sunday 11am-1pm. This is a great time to get help with remeasuring if your draft is not quite working out or if you do not understand something about the drafting system in the videos.

DUE August 31 at the beginning of class

  1. Everyone follows Chapter: Calculating & Setting Up the Moulage (24:51 mins). Everyone drafts front and back moulage using S. Furrer’s video chapters Drafting the Front Moulage (44:38 mins) and Drafting the Back Moulage (40:48 mins).The drafting will take much longer than the time stamps indicated in the videos. Plan on spending a significant amount of time on these drafts. Front Moulage should be done in one sitting. Back Moulage can be done at a different time. It is essential that you pay attention to instructions and work precisely.Written measuring and drafting instructions for the feminine and masculine figures from The Ultimate Guide to Designing Clothing Patterns (most recent edition) by Suzy Furrer can be found here.

    Students following the masculine figure system will watch Suzy Furrer’s videos and follow the printed instructions from The Ultimate Guide to Designing Clothing Patterns (most recent edition) to draft their sloper.
    Measurement, Calculations, and References for Masculine Figure, handout

    Students following the feminine figure system will watch the Craftsy videos and use them as their main source of drafting instructions. These students will use the dart width references from the aforementioned handout rather than the handout available for download from Craftsy. The handout students download from this class website supersedes the video’s instructions regarding dart width and cup size calculations.
    Measurements, Calculations, and References for Feminine Figure, handout

  2. DUE September 4, posted on PinterestSewing Machine Samples: Follow Along (tension setting sample, spiral, square labyrinth, letter).

    The letter sample should be completed with zigzag stitch only, utilizing various settings for width and length of the stitch. All students (beginner or not) must complete 4 flat sewing samples and pin images of completed samples to their section on our class Pinterest Board.

    If you have taken a class with me before, your goal is to perfect the control of the sewing machine and challenge yourself with these samples by sewing more densely on the spiral and square labyrinth samples, challenging yourself with precision on distances between seams.

  3. All sewists—beginner and advanced—are required to watch the videos below by the end of Week 2 at the latest. The sooner the better! New sewists, do not get discouraged if a lot of the terminology is unfamiliar. As we progress through the class, all this information will start making sense!