Feb 17, 2022, 12:20PM to 2:10PM

Welcome! The main objectives for today are to review the ‘Parasite’ results and to go over all the skills required to finish the vest.

Parasites

We will look at the samples you have made. We’d like to manage the class time today carefully, so we will quickly look at the documentation for each pair.

Patterning

The next phase of the vest construction is transferring the adjusted pattern from the muslin prototype to the canvas and mesh used for the final garment.

We will demonstrate a number of steps: please take notes as we go, since you will be required to perform some of these steps later on your own.

The general plan is as follows:

  • To make new pattern:
    • rip out the shoulder seams to separate the panels
    • rip out the dart seams to re-flatten the muslin
    • cut the muslin pieces at the Sewing Line (i.e. cut off the seam allowance) – or the new Sewing Line Olivia has marked on your mock-up
    • lay out the three panels flat on the on brown paper and weigh them down or pin them
    • Trace the muslin onto the brown paper.
    • Mark points for the dart triangles. Remove the muslin pieces and draw in the darts.
    • Make a copy of the lower 3-4 inches of the back panel and front panel – but reversed, upside down so it joins the lower part of the pattern panel.
    • Cut the brown paper at traced line. This is your new pattern.
  • To cut out your fabric:
    • Lay down the mesh fabric flat. Lay down the canvas fabric on top of the mesh.
    • Place your pattern pieces on top of the canvas so that leaves enough room around all pattern pieces for a 1/2 inch seam allowance, while still not wasting fabric.
    • Weigh or pin down the pattern pieces and trace their outline. Transfer the darts as we did above. This is your Sewing Line.
    • Take off the pattern pieces. Draw a 1/2 outline on all pattern pieces. This is the Cutting Line.
    • pin the canvas and mesh together
    • cut the final panels simultaneously from canvas and mesh along the Cutting Line
  • To sew your vest:
    • stitch the canvas and mesh panels together around the outside edge within the seam allowance
    • pin and sew the darts as before
    • pin and sew the shoulder seams as before
    • pin and sew the side seams

Zippers

We will demonstrate the techniques for installing zippers. Note that this will require switching the foot on the machine to the ‘zipper foot’ which allows stitching close to to the zipper.

We will practice zipper installation on muslin in class.

Assignment

Please finish constructing the vest before Tuesday.