Below are my corrected paper patterns:
Category: Sloper Blocks
Final Adjusted Muslin Slopers–Julie Choi
Top Adjustments
- There was an extra dart on the back sloper that I didn’t take in, so took that dart in to fit my torso.
- I evened out the shoulders to be the same length.
- The front two darts needed to be straightened out to the actual BP.
- I dropped the neckline about 1 cm.
- I dropped the armscye (under the armpit) about 1.5 cm on each side to fit my shoulders more comfortably.
- I shortened the cross back half an inch on each side for the sleeve opening to curve naturally inwards in the back.
Trouser Adjustments
- I lengthened the back rise by 1.25 cm and shortened the front rise by 2.25 cm.
- I took in about 1.5 cm around the hip+waist area.
- I took in about 2 cm from the thighs down to the knees.
Reflection
Although the alterations seemed like a simple task, I realized it took me two or three tries when it came to making the adjustments because it would turn out to be too tight or too loose. Because of this, making the adjustments was very time-consuming and tedious but weirdly addicting. I enjoyed the whole process because it helped me realized how these stitches transform into a 3D form that is customed to my body. I still find it pretty fascinating that the adjusted slopers fit pretty well. One thing that I still haven’t resolved is the front darts forming a pointy silhouette near the BP–I attempted to fix this multiple times but wasn’t able to fix it.
Adjusted Slopers – Sarah Xi
Adjustments: Bodice
– Moved shoulder point forward
– Lowered bust dart point
– Took in the sides a bit.
– Sewed in half a cm of on center top of sleeve (might adjust because it turned out too tight)
– Brought down armscye, but might need to do that more since it’s still kind of tight.
– Still need to level the bottom of the bodice front to back.
Trousers:
– Took in 6cm from the sides (was way too big before)
– Was going to take in 3 cm around the hip horizontally (already marked), but wasn’t sure how to go about it just yet.
Muslin Slopers Final – Franky Moore
I had problems with the images so here is also the google drive link to higher resolution images: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AFB0E7fTAwljxBvB2uZ9xYCvpMiexkb3?usp=sharing
There were several modifications to the bodice and minimal modifications to the trouser.
First, the trousers were shortened by 2.2 cm at the hipline, and 4.2 cm at the ankle. The hem was also shortened by ~4 cm. The back crotch was extended by 1 cm.
For the sleeves, 5cm of ease was added on either side and slanted down towards the wrist. Overall, the biceps were widened by 4.2 cm at the bicep and narrowed by 2.5 cm at the wrist.
For the bodice, the back darts were widened to 5.6 cm, the front darts were lowered by 1 cm and narrowed by 0.4 cm. The side seam was widened by 1.2 cm. The armscye was also lowered by 1.2 cm and the curve was extended to “end”/merge at the original armscye at the back point, and extended the front curve 1cm past the mark of the original armscye.
Danova-Slopers, fitted
One of my main issues with my garment top was that the darts in the bodice were much too long, I realized I had measured wrongly, so I shortened the darts in to front and back of the bodice- this fixed a lot of the issues with the bodice overall. I also adjusted the lower back of the bodice, and for the sleeves I took a slice out of the sleeve, making them smaller and re-sewing them closed, and cut a little shorter in length so that they fit properly. For the trousers, I slimmed down the legs as much as possible, bringing in that outer seam to make them fit the legs more tightly. I also scooped out the curved part of the front and back seam on the trouser, which really helped the crotch/butt area fit more closely, and making the pants sit a little lower and more comfortably on my waistline.
Adjusted Slopers
Bodice
I changed the bust dart to lower the end point, but then there was too much room underneath the bust. I then tried to change that, which helped to some extent, but now I’m left with this issue: the dot on this image is where the dart ends, but within the circle here you can see that the fabric keeps folding over beyond where the dart ends, though the dart was ironed. I don’t quite know how to fix this.
The current bust dart is marked with teal.
Trousers
I made adjustments to my bodice and trouser blocks over the weekend, and I think I’ve improved the fit. To my bodice: I widened the neck by bringing it out and down. I moved my bust darts down an inch, dropped the arm hole, and moved the shoulder seam forward by changing the angle of the shoulder on the front pattern, which also changed the fact that my back arm hole was too long. On the back bodice, I also widened the neckline a bit. I also changed the back darts by dropping them an inch or so. On both sides of the bodice, and shortened the shoulder length so it dropped off at my natural shoulder. On the trousers, I didn’t change quite as much. I changed the hip point so that it was higher and taken in a bit, shortened the whole pant length, and took in the back side seam to make the leg a bit smaller. I made the back rise longer by adding more length to the inside crotch. I made these adjustments to the patterns first, and then ripped out what seams I needed to, transferred the new markings, and sewed them in. I didn’t need to cut any fully new pieces. I tried on my slopers, and I found that my bust dart stills seemed off, and there was a lot of extra room underneath the bust. I tried to adjust for this, but I think it still could use some work, though I’m not exactly sure what to do.
Refined Muslin Slopers – Sean Meng
Full + Quarter Scale Trouser Sloper – Sarah
I just realized that I never posted my quarter trouser slopers either: