Encoded Cloth Part 3- Marissa

I set out to fabricate a cloak that symbolized the cultural shift or turning point of ideals in my imagined future. In 2030, people are facing the uncomfortable realities of climate change and overconsumption and repairing the damage. As a garment, the cloak is shielding and defensive, but it also has a commanding presence that is attention drawing. I wanted to make something wearable that could communicate a sense of movement and transition. A cloak was perfect for this, and I decided to adorn the inside and outside to symbolize progressive change away from toxic behaviors/beliefs.

Completed cloak front/back view

The outside of the cloak features stacked painted lines. The lines were somewhat difficult to paint due to the netted fibers, but I was able to create the gradient I was looking for. I used the spacing between the lines to symbolize rapid mass consumption. We consume everything at an unsustainably fast pace now, and this will ultimately lead to self-destruction. I also distressed the bottom of the cloak with scissors to show what happens when consumption habits exceed their boundaries.

In-process mending of the inside of the cloak

On the inside of the cloak, I decided to use mending as a way to represent patching old scars and transforming beliefs. I was surprised to see how the visibility of patches changed with my movements, and I liked how I could not quite keep them hidden. Overall, I like the regenerative message the mending sends.

My biggest challenge was adapting to the material throughout the construction process. After making a trial cloak out of muslin, it was an adjustment to work with four layers of thin netted fabric. In order to give the cloak weight and bulk, I cut and sewed four layers together. I was pleasantly surprised that the thread was completely invisible because I was initially planning on doing french seams to combat that problem. It was difficult to find the right hood shape in the excess material, but I was able to construct one with the right dimensions to match the cloak’s neckline (this was something I failed to do with the muslin trial). It was a bit awkward to sew such a large volume of fabric together, but luckily I had enough pins to go around 🙂

I’m still struggling with figuring out a way to tie and secure the cloak for wear. The ribbon I chose is actually pretty uncomfortable, so in order to make this more functional, I’m going to try an eye-and-hook closure.