In the World – Page 3 – 99-361 A: Garment Patterning, Construction, and Experimentation

Garment Inspiration – Silvia Chen

I have only recently begun being more interested in fashion, and what really launched my interest in fashion were the outfits that K-pop idols wore. I have followed the Korean music industry for awhile, with my favorite part of the industry being the live shows and concerts where idols sing and dance live in a variety of flashy outfits. When idols perform live and promote their latest albums or activities, they don a multitude of different outfits that represent their own unique styles or symbolize a topic that they want to draw attention to personally and through their music. Only in the past year or so have I really appreciated the efforts that these idols and their stylists put in for their outfits.

The pictures I chose above are all from K-pop artist HyunA’s most recent music video, “I’m Not Cool”. These are just some of the unique outfits that she wore when filming the music video. HyunA is an idol that has been in the Korean music industry for over 10 years, and has often been criticized for not being as pretty or conventionally attractive as other popular female idols. “I’m Not Cool” is the title track for her first album in 4 years, in which she wears outfits that showcase her unconventional style and represent the themes she talks about in her song. The first outfit above is the first outfit shown in the music video, thus setting the tone of the video. The second outfit is one that pops up multiple times in the video and the one featured on the album’s cover. It is glamorous and I think it shows off that she is confident in her looks. The third outfit only appears briefly in the music video, but appears when she talks about her head being filled with sparkly and spiky thoughts. The last outfit pictured above also appears for a short period, but shows HyunA with a snake on her head, as she talks about being as intense as a snake.

These outfits were just some of my favorite outfits from HyunA’s music video. I believe they all showcased how HyunA is confident in her own body. Even if many in the industry call her unconventional, she uses those sentiments to prove that her unconventional looks only make her more confident.

Garment Inspiration – Sophia Huang

I am personally really interested in traditional Chinese clothing. Growing up I have often learned about the different Chinese dynasties and how each of them is similar but yet very different. One of their main differences is the style of clothing. Despite those differences, traditional Chinese clothing is often layered and includes patterns/designs that represent the Chinese culture. However, as years passed, people start to be less traditional in the way they dress, making these types of clothing (especially the handmade ones) harder and harder to find.

All three garments above are Han Fu. They all include Chinese patterns/symbols and includes multiple layers. The first dress is often worn to perform the traditional Chinese sleeve dance, the second one is for the traditional fan dance, and the last outfit is the most similar to what women in the Han dynasty would wear. These garments stand out to me because of the traditional elements in them and the history behind this type of clothing. I am also really interested in how the designers put each layer together to allow the dress to make different shapes/movements as the person wearing them dances.

Fashion Inspiration

One garment I really love is the “wet dress” Kim Kardashian wore to the 2019 Met Gala. The dress was designed by French fashion designer Thierry Mugler who came out of a 20-year retirement to create the piece. The dress is made out of latex and clear beads, and took eight months to create.

I love this piece because every aspect of the designed works together perfectly to communicate the central concept: stepping out of the ocean dripping wet. I find it fantastic how the designer used latex to simulate the look of wet cloth. The bunching of the material, the sequins, and of course the hanging beads all come together to communicate wetness without any water at all. This piece inspires me to think about how materials can be used in different ways in order to subvert our expectations of the material and even create illusions.

Garment Inspiration – Elise Delgado

Although each of these examples above may be completely different from each other, I believe they highlight my diverse interests in garments and meaning making. As I personally draw inspiration from organic materials such as flowers and create pieces that are very much on the haute couture, can’t-wear-to-anything-at-all, type of pieces, I look towards the work of Giambattista Valli. This Italian designer has mad massive dresses with endless layers of tulle that are mesmerizing. I like the feeling of being mesmerized by a gown because I understand the craftsmanship that goes into making it. Furthermore, I enjoy garments that push the idea of even what a garment is, adding sculpture to it. Yes, this may be costuming when we look at the Puerto Rico gown by Joshuan Aponte, but, he has done drag gowns that involve these sculptural elements and even movement. See Miss Puerto Rico gown. The elements of big, bright, and loud are very inspiring to me because I think it shows personality.

Lastly, I am inspired by those who break gender “norms” and may dress however they please. I often am discouraged by the fashion industry for being very exclusive to a select body type, ability, and any type of diversity is lacking. I appreciate the tuxedo gown worn by Billy Porter as it is a gorgeous representation of how garments have no need being gendered and exclusive. So I have a large interest and am deeply inspired by garments that embody diversity and are made for the wearer to express who they are. I truly believe garments are a form of self expression and shouldn’t be a part of the binary norms of our society.

Garment Inspiration – Natalia Santiago

I have always loved the world of fashion; however, I have little experience with the creation of clothing. Typically I look up outfits to get inspiration when putting together clothes to wear, other times I will look at clothing pieces that draw my attention because of the their bright and playful compositions, such as the ones shown above.

The elements which draw my attention to the clothing images displayed above boil down to the bright colors, the playful textures and the beautiful composition of the fabrics. The first two articles of clothing drew my attention through the use of the different intricate fabrics, such as the lace and the ruffled tulle fabric, as well as the small details included in their design, such as the small bows in the second image and the fabric covered buttons, turtle neck and puffed sleeves in the first image. The next two images drew my attention through the use of clothing items with contrasting color combinations as well as the use of playful fabrics. The following two garments not only use bright colored fabrics, they also create beautiful compositions by fabricating different fabric patterns, such as the pleating and placement of fabric in the pink dress, and using various appliques ranging from feathers to small lace details. Such use of fabric really captures my attention as you are able to create such simple yet captivating pieces by giving a texture to a fabric or adding simple yet unusual details to a piece. Finally the last two dresses (as well as the previously mentioned yellow feathered one) are created by Giambattista Valli who one of my favorite designers. The vast amounts of tulle used in his dresses creates a flow in their design that truly captivates my attention. The dresses give off such a playful yet elegant aura that I really appreciate. His method of layering tulle is one I really admire.

Garment Inspiration – Aditi

I really enjoy garments that compliment bodies in a less traditional way, this includes garments that are super structured or are form fitting in unusual parts of the body.

In the first picture, I like the exaggerated pockets coupled with the contrast stitching. I appreciate how subtle the modification is – this piece could definitely something could be worn on a day to day basis and the large pockets make it utilitarian. These tights from Maroske Peech as the are form fitting to the legs in a very unconventional way. I feel like garments like these force us to break away from what we think is conventionally beautiful and appreciate bodies. The last Tom Ford piece definitely has an interesting choice of material. I really like that he took inspiration from something as old as a breastplate and put a modern spin on it by making it form fitting and choosing a bold color. The idea of using materials like metal in garment design excites me and this piece is particularly interesting as it manages to be both form fitting and structured, something you cannot achieve with fabrics.

Garment Inspirations- Danova

All of these works transform the bodies theyre on in so many visually interesting ways, using materials that are not common in everyday clothing. Garment-based work that has inspired me recently involves any unconventional use of spheres, use of strange fabrics-especially plastics- and any wearable art that reminds me of orbs or bubbles. I have become very interested in the idea of soap bubbles, how they have so much conceptual meaning about human fragility and their weird tangibility. In these garments, the bubbles and the plastics do not just fit to the body, they roll around on and around it in many visually interesting ways, or they expand and constrict on it. Kinetic garments and those that can be incorporated into performances or video are some of my favourite pieces to see and work with. Being able to explore unconventional materials and find ways to make them interact with the body in unexpected ways is something I particularly enjoy. These works also feel very fantastical and modern, but the elements of confinement to the hard plastic and restrictive rubber definitely felt like a poignant comment on how we accessorize in our current climate.

I especially felt drawn to the choice of materials in these works- they are unconventional and confining in different ways. Specifically, how the works shown above use plastic-like materials to create high-fashion garments worn on the body, because nowadays it feels as though we are constantly surrounded by plastic casings and many types of shields. The materials do not look particularly comfortable to wear and have different types of translucency I find really interesting. I think that this idea of modern style outfits, that may have technology or other kinetic functions built into them, being very uncomfortable and not particularly functional as modesty-coverings is funny and absurd. I enjoy how these garments all have an air of whimsicality and sensuality-I feel like I’m able to imagine how these materials would feel if I could touch them and there is joy in the experience of these garments.

Garment Inspiration – Franky Moore

I really like experimentation with different shapes, textures and details. The hood on the left interested me because only their eyes are visible due to the design of the hood itself rather than COVID and the presence of a mask. I also liked the details such as the heart-shaped cutout and clear crystal tear underneath the right eye. The photo in the middle is from a jazz singer who dresses in older menswear, and I really enjoy the smoking jacket. The small chain on the front, brocade, and satin details on the cuff and lapels really make this stand out to me as a fascinating garment that I would wear on a night out. I also like the trim of the pockets.

Finally, the leftmost image is a “Zoot suit” (political implications and more information: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zoot_suit). I adore the pants and the use of excess fabric because it highlights the affordability of trends that, until the industrial revolution, were impossible to afford because of the high cost of excess fabric. It plays with shape in a way I would like to incorporate into future work. I like the fact that the body is obscured and exaggerated, and that movement would have been relatively easy in the pants themselves.

Garment Inspiration – Sarah Xi

Even though I’m inexperienced with making clothes, I do enjoy drawing. As such, I usually look online for references I can use for my artwork or get inspired by what I see and draw off that feeling/inspiration.

In the three images I attached above, they each have elements that stood out to me in terms of both craft and design. As the first two come from the same collection, the way the pattern is used in an asymmetrical(?) way caught my eye. This is especially prominent in the first outfit, as even though there is a lot going on in the pattern, the dark colored blocks feel like they were intentionally placed to create contrast. This allows the fabric and garment itself to be seen better as its worn. As for what I liked about the third image, I loved how the entire outfit felt like it was perfectly fitted on the model despite it being on the baggier/loose side. The long rounded collar also brings uniqueness that I adore to the cozy layered design.

Garment Inspiration – Sean Meng

Dresses from Issey Miyake's 132 5 collection, on view in Paris

Renderings of folded fabric configurations. Images courtesy Issey Miyake.

I’m personally super enthusiastic about fashion and clothing. Through the process of observing and experimenting, I found that the pattern design of the garment is artful itself. Even with little changes and thoughts put into pattern design, designers are able to create amazing silhouettes and forms.

These pictures well illustrate the possibility of garments that pattern design allows. With these origami-inspired folding patterns, Issey Miyake turns the flat fabrics into something that owns volume. Even with rather muted color and texture, the garments stand out for their unique expression of geometry. Moreover, the idea of morphing folding paper into a wearable garment is inspiring in a way that opens up a new perspective of designing: Instead of only focusing on creating 2 dimensionally, designers can actually look into the various materiality of fabrics and design based on their own uniqueness such as foldable, transluscent, and sitff, etc.

Category: In the World